Anti-Aging With Vitamin A

By Rachel Lamont
Medical Esthetician and Owner of The Natural Art of Skin Care

Our bodies break down over time; we call this process "aging." An accumulation of free-radical damage builds up and begins to break down the body. Tissue is more susceptible to inflammation, we don't heal as fast or as well, damages to the immune system can become more frequent and the our body's healing ability and daily functioning slows down. These are all some of the contributing factors to the aging process. Sun damage starts to show in the skin and hormonal fluctuations that cause damage to the skin begins to show. New cells are produced slower and in a more irregular, mutated, rough, defective way and the result is skin looks older and is not as plump - not like the plump, youthful skin cells of our earlier days! General cell turnover slows down also, so our skin takes longer to flake off, leaving us with older and more lackluster, dull and damaged skin appearance. With a slower system, our skin damage becomes more prominent and the growth of new skin cells also slow down, and therefore take longer to get to the surface so the skin begins to look dull and old. There are not as many elastin and collagen cells in the skin or being produced by fibroblasts, so the youthful thickness begins to diminish and the firmness of our skin loses its bounce.

Have I made you depressed yet?

So is there anything we can do to slow down the signs of aging? Especially the visible signs we see on our face, body, and skin? Or should we just try to accept the aging process gracefully and with dignity and just let our appearance age as we grow older? The simple answer is: NO. I'm a firm believer in meeting the aging process somewhere in the middle. I don't want anyone to look like the "Cat Lady" and refuse any sign of the natural aging process, and never see a line or a wrinkle; this simply looks unnatural over time. Using skin fillers, botox, excessive heavy chemical peels and invasive laser treatments to conceal the aging process can make a person look fake as they age, and unnatural in my opinion. But don't be discouraged because YES, there are many solutions that can be helpful as we grow older that will leave us radiant and youthful-looking. There are many natural products and ingredients that can help you with the overall signs of aging and even past acne scarring. These are the techniques and treatments we will be discussing in this article.  

One of these magic ingredients that all skin care professionals agree on is Vitamin A. It is one of my absolute favourites because I have both personally used this product and recommended it to clients and seen great results over the years. This is a vitamin that is amazing at working against the signs of aging and can help you combat all of the visual symptoms I listed above. Used properly, Vitamin A can reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase the thickness of the skin, reduce pigmentation, normalize the skin, improve the texture, unclog pores, reduce breakouts and neutralize free radicals! It is a great anti-oxidant for overall skin heath and allows the skin to regenerate faster so that it can turnover quicker, also improving the signs of acne, reducing all types of scarring and pigmentation, while increasing collagen and elastin for skin thickness and tightness. Vitamin A is also a great "food" for our glycosoaminoglycans (GAGs), which will help your skin to retain its moisture and produce a gorgeous, healthy skin glow. 

There are many different types of Vitamin A so I'm going to try and clarify some of them for you throughout this article. They range from natural to synthetic and they both have their pros and cons in this regard. You may be familiar with some of different types of Vitamin A under these names: Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, Carotenoids, Retinoic Acid, Retin-A Isotretinoin and Accutane, just to name a few. Each of these is a slightly different form of Vitamin A so let's go over what that means and break down the pros and cons of each type for you:

Retinol

Retinol is a very active, alcohol form of Vitamin A. As a result it can be very effective, but can be irritating to the skin when it is over-used or used improperly. Retinol is one of the animal forms of Vitamin A; some of the best sources of Vitamin A are from eggs, liver, Halibut and Cod fish liver oils. It is generally accepted as the basic and a very common form of Vitamin A, and when converted by the body, essential for vision, healthy teeth and for growing strong bones and skin. The skin can become irritated by this version of Vitamin A, so only use it as recommended by a qualified Esthetician and increase your use slowly over time under their recommendations. You will see that the skin will likely peel with frequent uses. It is difficult to make a cream with Retinol and keep it active; Vitamin A products are very sensitive to light, oxygen and water, so packaging and ingredients need to be taken into extra consideration to ensure an effective product. This is why Retinol products generally have a specific and limited shelf life.

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate is a fat source of Vitamin A and is used as an anti-oxidant to feed and nourish the skin. Generally, it is less irritating to the skin than a Retinol Acid.  It is normally found in the skin in its natural form and is a much more stable version of Vitamin A than most other forms. I like to use this and Retinyl Acetate personally, in conjunction with acid forms that will feed the skin over time. 

Retinyl Acetate

Retinyl Acetate is a milder - though still active - form of Vitamin A and is tolerated by the skin much easier than some other forms. This is a form of Vitamin A that is stored in the liver so it is a much more stable version of the vitamin and is more bio-available also.

Carotenoids

The plant form of Vitamin A is called "Carotenoids." Some of the richest sources are from carrots and spinach, leafy green vegetables, broccoli, dried beans and lentils. This form of Vitamin A is both mild on the skin and also helps to feed the skin. It does not signal to the skin to hyper-exfoliate, so you will not get the skin turnover that you would expect from some of the stronger and non-acidic versions. I personally like to make this form of Vitamin A readily available in my skin care regime to both feed and nourish for healthy skin.

Retinoic Acid, Retin A and Accutane

Retinoic Acid, Retin A and Accutane is the metabolically active form of Vitamin A, which works on the DNA of a cell nucleus. You need to do your research on these products before using them and be very mindful when choosing if these products are right for you. These are prescription forms of Vitamin A and were introduced in 1982, and they can and should be used on when recommended by your doctor. Some forms are for topical application and some are designed to be taken orally. They are very strong versions of Vitamin A and cannot be misused. Orally, they can be toxic to the liver and kidney, as well as causing a number of different internal side effects like Chron's Disease, intestinal issues, nose bleeds, depression, dry skin and even birth defects. If you choose to go ahead and use one of these forms of Vitamin A, tread gently and follow your doctors orders carefully. But first I would always advise to ask yourself if it is necessary for your level of acne, and if this is the best way to take care of yourself and your skin. I believe it should be looked at as a last resort only and I would recommend trying facials, individualized skin care routines made for you by a skin care professional, regular routine skin clean-outs, and consultations with a natural practitioner to look over any allergies you may have, your liver and kidney toxicity and overall health, lifestyle and diet, before making your decision. 

Vitamin A can be a powerful communicator with skin cells and help to bring them to a more normal, youthful and healthy state. It is a regulator and helps to normalize DNA. With this powerful ingredient, you can reduce the signs of aging I mentioned above, help firm and thicken your skin, reduce the appearance of scarring, as well as improve all skin types, including acne-prone skin, and help your skin to act and look younger and more resilient. 

With a Vitamin A routine, you can reverse the damage by helping your skin to produce healthier, younger cells more quickly. It will help to stimulate the production of collagen, which in turn helps to firm sagging skin. Healthier, more normal skin loves to produce collagen and will do so over time with continued use of Vitamin A. Vitamin A will also help your skin build elastin, which over time will produce thicker and more firm, healthy and younger looking skin overall. Your skins structural elements, like collagen and elastin, are readily available in the skin but will accumulate in greater number earlier on, like in your youth. 

One of my biggest pieces of advice for you is to remember that Vitamin A is most effective when used over time for gradual and consistent results! You will see the results build over months and years, and you will not be disappointed if you learn how to use the products properly and you exercise patience. I like to tell my clients that for great results give yourself a year, and the longer you use Vitamin A the stronger, thicker and better your skin will look. It is a secret weapon against aging that you can use for life and the results will slowly increase the longer you use it! With the help of a daily SPF and other skin-feeding ingredients and anti-oxidants, your skin will age glowing and radiating. 

One way I believe I have had so much success with Vitamin A use, is that I help clients to start with a handful of different kinds of Vitamin A, encourage them to start slow, and then increase the levels of their use over months and years to follow. I also always pair Vitamin A with a combination of many other anti-oxidants, vitamins, nutritional skin products, SPF and oils, and I encourage my clients to aim for a healthy diet and healthy lifestyle choices. This will assist in aging well, trust me!

One reason people fail at using Vitamin A - a powerful tool for your skin - is because they begin using it too fast. This almost always ends in a Retinoid or Vitamin A reaction. Signs and symptoms of a reaction can look like a breakout, or a thinning of the skin, flaking, redness, rash, irritation, cold sores on the lips (if you carry the virus and are prone to them), eye styes, inflammation, pus-filled lesions and more. When people see results like this, it's no wonder they become discouraged and think they have particularly sensitive skin or that Vitamin A is not for them. In most cases, this is not actually true and if they had begun their use slowly, they would have had a greater level of success and better results overall, while avoiding these nasty side effects of over-use. Vitamin A is best utilized over time in my opinion, for the best results. As I said earlier, commit to Vitamin A for a year or more and I am sure you will be very satisfied; that has been my experience and the experience of my clients. I wish you all the best with your aging process and incorporating Vitamin A into your skin care regime! Remember that if you unsure of how to approach introducing Vitamin A, ask one of our qualified and experienced Estheticians to custom-design a Vitamin A routine with you, based on your individual needs.
 

Camping, Hiking & Festival Skin Care Made Simple

By Rachel Lamont
Medical Esthetician & Owner of The Natural Art of Skin Care

It's prime camping season again and I am getting ready for my next adventure! People always ask me how I take my skin care regime out in the back country. So for all you campers, hikers, and festival goers, I'm about to share with you all my secrets of how I stay fresh and clean out in the woods.

As everyone who knows me will tell you, I love to be out in nature on my time off; camping and hiking bring me a lot of joy, balance, adventure and peace to my life. Also, I don't like to be dirty for a long period of time! I always need to go to sleep clean. ALWAYS, no matter what! Because of these two factors, I have been cleverly figuring out over time ways to achieve both my goals; being out in the wilderness and staying reasonably clean with limited resources.

This is my personal product and supply list. You may want to think and consider bringing the following also. These are all suggestions depending on your type of trip and adventure, so choose the products that fit your personal adventure:

• Toothbrush and dental floss
• Toothpaste or baking soda. You can put these in a small container.
• A bar of soap or a bottle of gentle body wash. Some people can use this soap on their face also, it depends on your skin type.
• Face soap
• Eminence Body SPF is a must! I never vacation, beach or hike at any time of year or anywhere without it. Eminence Body SPF is gentle enough that you can use this on your face also.
• Aloe Gel for over sun exposure - because, let's admit it: It happens!
• Coconut oil is for cooking and every skin problem under the sun and moon. If you are hesitate, put coconut oil on it, everywhere!
• Gentle Calendula or Shea Butter salves for post wound healing, scratches, dry skin areas etc.
• Frankincense Essential Oil is a powerful disinfectant for serious wounds. It happens out there!
• Myrrh Essential Oil for less serious and gentle post wound healing. Small scratches even in and around orifice's like the mouth, nose, ears and everywhere else.
• For bug repellent, choose from one of the following: Peppermint, Lavender, Rosemary or Citronella and put them on your clothing. Essential Oils are small and travel well. Bugs don't like me much so I'm lucky that way but people around me have not been so lucky so I've experimented. These Essential Oils are great for post bug and pest bites. Just apply to the area.
• 2-3 washes of clothes and 2 clean towels, 2 dish towels and two dish clothes. One towel is for the beach and one is for cleaning up during your nightly cat baths (which we will talk about later). I like to keep these towels separate because a beach towel can get really dirty after a day or two. I have micro-towels now also; They are small and don't take up any room. If you camp a lot then you may want to invest in some micro-towels.
• My make-up. I'm not going to lie: I put my make-up on every day! This is optional of course. Feel free to wander make-up free, the trees don't mind! My make-up foundation has an SPF 20 in it, so that is my excuse for always wearing it.
• A pot to boil water in over a stove or camp fire. The bigger the better! Note: You will want to boil the water if it is river or lake water and not from a natural spring or water that is pre-bottled from the local grocery store.
• Natural Deodorant.
• Eye Contact Lens. This can be difficult business for some while camping so choose wisely if you want to tackle this hurdle. Glasses may be easier for some.
• A good sun brimmed hat
• Sunglasses.
• A hair brush. This is optional, depending on your hair length and the condition of your hair.
• Containers of shampoo and conditioner.
• A yoga mat to stand on and to keep your feet clean while cleansing yourself. There are 101 uses for a yoga mat while you're camping so I find it essential. 
• Natural homemade reusable baby wipes. Please refer to the end of the article for full instructions and an ingredient listing guide.

Morning Camping Routine

In the morning I wake up and boil a pot or two of water. I have tea or coffee depending on the morning. In the mornings you can decide if you want to brush your teeth, wash your face and brush your hair, or whether you need to clean your whole body. I never go to bed dirty so the morning routine is quick and easy for me. I begin with flossing and brushing my teeth, washing my face and putting an SPF moisturizer on. I apply body SPF where ever I think I will be exposed and reapply every 2-3 hours as needed. Any covered area, you can just apply a natural body salves, natural deodorant and aloe gel on any previously sun over-exposed areas on your body and face.

Night Camping Routine

When returning to camp after a long, hot, sweaty day, I begin with boiling some water over the stove or camp fire in a pot. When boiled to your desired temperature, I grab my bathroom bag and find a private place in the woods or sometimes, I have to get creative. Just find a private place with a great view; this is all I am ever looking for! I call this woody and forestry nightly routine "The Sound of Music." And I must say I love this moment at the end of a long day, after sweating in the fresh mountain sunshine! I take my yoga mat to stand on so my feet don't get dirty as I am washing. Note: Make sure you are in a private place if you care and are not much of an exhibitionist! If it's cold or windy then you can do this ritual in your tent, depending on your environment.

• Bring one bath towel, one wash cloth, your yoga mat and your bathroom supplies.
• My rule is to brush and floss my teeth first.
• Wash your face next with wipes or face clothes and a face cleanser with the warm water you previously boiled.
• Wash your body next. I got taught to work my way down so I start with my neck, then hands, arms, underarms, abdomen and back, groin area, then legs and feet last. This is important because they can get really dirty.
• Towel yourself dry and you should start to feel clean and amazing again.  
• Use your natural salves, body and face moisturizers appropriate all over and as needed.
• Dress warm and cozy for the night if you are in the mountains. I suggest cotton or flannel, layers, hats and mitts. Everything and anything you brought that's warm.
• Note: Essential oils are great for these kinds of trips because they are healing, small and versatile.

Natural Baby Wipes Recipe (courtesy of Lou!)

Buy a generic baby wipes container and remove the generic wipes and wash out the container well. I went to Fabricland and got some soft felt. Wash it first to make sure it is clean and pre-shrunk. This is a cost effective trick and you can custom cut the size for your container. I like the size of my palm personally. Fold them nicely and dampen the clean folded wipes. Depending on your skin type, use Essential Oils that work for your skin. You will need 10-35 drops of oil combined, depending again on your skin. I like to use Lavender and Geranium, and I always use Myrrh. If you are acne prone, add some Tea Tree and Eucalyptus oils to add to your blend. A teaspoon of your Eminence cleanser or a natural cleanser of your choice. I love using the Eminence Rice Milk Cleanser; I found it perfect for this recipe!

Well I hope this help you out, all of my outdoor people and festival friends! Enjoy, stay clean, stay warm, stay hydrated and if nothing else, SPF during the day!! At least cover with cool hats and scarfs... always! Most of all, stay safe, whatever it is that you love doing my friends.

Sunscreens: A Guide to SPF

By Rachel Lamont
Medical Esthetician & Owner of The Natural Art of Skin Care

We were taught in school the best anti-aging is prevention. So feed your skin healthy, vitamin rich skin care and continuously protect against daily environmental and UV light damage over the years. This will leave you with beautiful skin that will pass the test of time. So should everyone wear sunscreen? Yes! You should wear sunscreen to prevent skin cancer and premature aging. So let's make sure you pick the safest one! 
Firstly, what are we protecting against?

UVB Rays

Invisible rays are part of the energy that comes from the sun. UVB radiation causes sunburn, darkening and thickening of the outer layer of the skin, and melanoma, not to mention other types of skin cancer. It may also cause problems with the eyes and the immune system. 

UVA Rays

UVA, which penetrates the skin more deeply than UVB, has long been known to play a major part in skin aging and wrinkling (called "photo-aging"), but until recently scientists believed it did not cause significant damage in areas of the epidermis (outermost skin layer) where most skin cancers occur. Studies over the past two decades, however, show that UVA damages skin cells called keratinocytes, located in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur. (Basal and squamous cells are types of keratinocytes.) UVA contributes to - and may even initiate! - the development of skin cancers. 

Uva is the dominant tanning ray, and we now know that tanning, whether outdoors or in a salon, causes cumulative damage over time. A tan results from injury to the skin's DNA; This causes the skin to darken in an imperfect attempt to prevent further DNA damage. These imperfections, or mutations, can lead to skin cancer. Tanning booths primarily emit UVA. The high-pressure sunlamps used in tanning salons emit doses of UVA as much as 12 times that of the sun. Not surprisingly, people who use tanning salons are 2.5 times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma, and 1.5 times more likely to develop basal cell carcinoma. According to recent research, first exposure to tanning beds in youth increases melanoma risk by 75 percent! 

What is SPF?

Most sunscreens list an SPF number on the label. SPF stands for "sun protection factor," and is a measurement of protection from only UVB rays, which are the ones that cause redness and sunburn.

What is an SPF Rating?

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates how long it will take for ultraviolet B (UVB) rays to redden your skin when you use a sun protection product, compared to how long the skin would take to redden without the product. So, the SPF number gives you some idea of how long you can stay in the sun without burning. For example, if you normally burn in 10 minutes without sunscreen and you've applied a liberal dose of a sunscreen with an SPF number of 15, you should be protected from sunburn for 150 minutes. This does not mean that you are protected from other radiation damage. A broad spectrum sunscreen is required to give protection in the UVA range as well. An SPF rating does not measure Ultraviolet A (UVA) protection.

UVA rays are considered even more dangerous, as they penetrate skin more deeply and are linked to skin cancer. But SPF does not measure a sunscreen's protection against UVA rays-only UVB rays. To further explain the SPF measurement, it is the difference between the amount of sunlight that causes redness in sunscreen-protected skin, and the amount that causes redness in unprotected skin. A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 theoretically gives you 15 times the minutes to stay out before you burn. For example, if you usually burn in 10 minutes, and you apply an SPF 15 product, you can stay out for 150 minutes. There are some problems with this equation though. It makes people believe that an SPF of 30 would allow them to remain twice as long in the sun as an SPF 15. In truth, an SPF 15 blocks about 93 percent of UVB rays, while an SPF 30 blocks about 97 percent, and an SPF 50 about 98 percent. So going higher and higher doesn't necessarily create more protection after a certain point. In addition, these numbers have nothing to do with UVA rays, so people who slather on an SPF of 50 and stay out in the sun for hours are likely to suffer even more severe skin damage if they don't have a "broad spectrum" sunscreen that protects from both UVA and UVB rays. Studies just don't support the idea that a higher SPF provides more protection. In addition, high SPF products are often made with greater percentages of chemical ingredients, which may be linked to hormone disruption, trigger allergic reactions, and potentially expose you to more free-radical damage. So I always suggest that everyone reapplies their SPF every 2-3 hours if you are continually out in the sun. Also a hat and some light covering clothes are always helpful protectors.

So what makes a safe Sunscreen?

Chemical Sunscreens vs. Physical Sunscreens

For many years now, people have been categorizing sunscreens into two groups—physical and chemical. Chemical sunscreens are made in the laboratory from synthetic ingredients. Some of the most popular chemical SPF ingredient options are cinnamates, oxybenzone, PABA and more. They reduce sun damage by absorbing UV rays that would otherwise be absorbed into the skin and cause damage. Studies have shown that a number of chemicals in sunscreens, such as PABA, cinnamates, oxybenzone, and more can react with the sun’s rays to create damaging free radicals, which may actually increase the risk of skin cancer.

Chemical sunscreens have also been linked with hormone disruption. Research has found that they can act like estrogen in the body, throwing natural hormones off-balance. In a study of six common sunscreen chemicals, five acted like estrogen, causing an increase in human breast cancer cells.  This is very scary stuff considering these products are suppose to help us prevent cancers and keep us healthy and safe! Which, to me, raises important questions about unintended effects on human health from frequent sunscreen application. The most worrying is oxybenzone, which is added to nearly 70 percent of the non-mineral sunscreens, according to the EWG’s 2016 sunscreen database.

Another concern with these sunscreens is that they have the potential to penetrate deeply into skin, getting inside the body. A 1999 study shows for instance, that all sunscreen agents tested penetrated into the skin, with benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone) passing through in significant amounts. In 2008, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reported that nearly all Americans were contaminated with oxybenzone, which has been linked with hormone disruption and allergies. This is not good!

EWG recommends that consumers avoid sunscreens with oxybenzone. But there are also other chemical filters that show similar indications of hormone disruption or skin allergy. Two European studies have detected oxybenzone and other sunscreen filters in mothers’ milk, indicating that a developing fetus and newborns may be exposed to these substances (Schlumpf 2008, Schlumpf 2010). A 2010 study of Swiss mothers by Margaret Schlumpf of the University of Zurich found that at least one sunscreen chemical in 85 percent of milk samples. They have also been linked to lower sperm count and endometriosis in females.

Physical sunscreens, on the other hand, like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are made of natural elements found on the earth, and are said to “block” or “scatter” UV rays so they never penetrate the skin in the first place. Later research showed this wasn’t entirely true; physical sunscreens absorb UV rays as well, but they do retain some scattering ability, depending on the size of the UV wavelength. But, they also do not get absorbed by the skin. Mineral sunscreens usually rate better than chemical sunscreens for safety in the EWG database. In general, physical sunscreens are considered to be the safer options because they offer a more broad-spectrum protection, and lack the hormone-disrupting effects.

Shocking Results of the Mainstream Market Studies

It is well known now that your sunscreen may not deliver the sun protection factor or SPF that it promises on the label. For the last few years there have been many tests done on SPF on the market and the results are shocking.  In one study they tested and rated more than 60 lotions, sprays, and sticks with SPF claims of 30 or higher. (30 being the minimum level recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology). But 28 of these, a shocking 43 percent, failed to meet the SPF claim on the label! Three of them fell far short, with tests showing an SPF of less than 15. That’s not enough sun protection, and it could leave you vulnerable to sunburn and possible long-term skin damage, such as wrinkles or skin cancer.

Unfortunately those results aren’t just a fluke; this has been the same pattern shown in testing over the past few years. Of all the sunscreens that were tested over the last few years in similar studies have shown to fall far below the SPF number printed on the label so choose wisely. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) doesn’t routinely test sunscreens; it requires the manufacturers to test their products. But in most cases the companies don’t have to submit their results, just keep them on hand in case the FDA asks to see them. So in short, they are simply not regulated like they should to be deemed safe.

The Safer Option - Physical Sunscreens

Zinc Oxide

Zinc Oxide is considered the safest option for sunscreen and the most widely used.  It is not water soluble so it has great lasting ability. Zinc Oxide also helps to calm inflammatory skin conditions like ulcers and wounds, warts, acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, burns, scars, photo-induced aging, diaper rash and dandruff. Due to this, it is used in many different skin products for a million different reasons. In 2007 Researchers tested zinc oxide and found it offered broad-spectrum UV protection, and was “photo-stable,” meaning it didn’t alter in dangerous ways when exposed to UV rays, where chemical SPF do.

Titanium Dioxide

Titanium Dioxide is an earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. Because of its gentleness, titanium dioxide is an excellent sunscreen active for use on sensitive or rosacea-affected skin. It’s also great for use around the eyes, as it is highly unlikely to cause stinging to sensitive skins. It was also found that micronized titanium dioxide does not penetrate the skin, so there is no need to be concerned about it getting into your body. Even when titanium dioxide nano-particles are used, the molecular size of the substance used to coat the nano-particles are large enough to prevent them from penetrating beyond the uppermost layers of skin. This means you’re getting the sun protection titanium dioxide provides, without any risk of it causing harm to skin cells. All-in-all, titanium dioxide is great broad-spectrum SPF ingredient. 

Though titanium dioxide works in a similar manner in providing broad-spectrum protection, its safety isn’t as well-documented as zinc’s. Zinc is the only active sunscreen ingredient approved by the FDA for infants under six month.  

My Favourite natural SPF Solutions For All Skin Types

Persimmons and Cantaloupe Day Cream SPF 32
Red Current Protective Moisturizer SPF 30
Eminence Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20
Bright Skin Moisturizer SPF 30
Tropical Vanilla Day Cream SPF 32
Tropical Vanilla Day Body Cream SPF 32
Eminence Sun Defense Minerals SPF 32
Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup SPF 20
 

All in all, keep you and your loved ones safe and healthy. Sunscreen is a part of a healthy long life, just make sure you are choosing the right one! Because as you now know, the wrong SPF can sometimes cause more harm then good! So choose wisely.

Research References:
badgerbalm.com
www.paulaschoice.com
makingcosmetics.com
eminence.com
ewg.org
skincancer.org
times.com

Claw Care: A Man's Guide To Healthy, Strong Nails, Hands & Feet

By Rachel Lamont
Spa Owner & Medical Esthetician

Don't get me wrong, I love a good, healthy strong paid of man mitts and I don't even mind a good-looking pair of man feet too! I even understand some callus is normal because it provides a healthy protection from all the hard work that you put your paws through day after day. Sandal season is upon us and I have seen some men's feet that I honestly wish I didn't! And make no mistake, men; I always see your hands and yes, I am judging! So if you won't come to the spa and let the professionals take care of you, then I will have to teach you the steps so you can at least attempt to at home! So this entire article is therefore dedicated to all you lovely beasts. I demand to see more beautiful, strong, man mitts that you would actually like to shake hands with, caress a beautiful face with, or comb through your hair (or a pretty lady's!) without getting caught on the calluses... because let's face it: There's nothing sexy about that!

So, I am committed to talking to my beautiful men out there; I'm here to give you some basic tips to help keep your mitts looking manly, but still soft and groomed. My goal with this article is to help you keep your hands and feet healthy, because not only will you need them for a long time, but I also want you to have a great experience next time your touch a woman! I want her to compliment you on your strong, soft hands and not gasp in horror - and pain! - when she feels your callused, scratchy and overgrown paws and hooves! Ok, so let's break this down for you:

Nail Care

Fingernails and toenails should be kept short in my opinion (unless you're a guitarist but this is a different matter entirely). I follow this rule with my own line of work as well, and because I enjoy gardening. The longer your nails are, the more likely you are to get dirt and debris caught under them. Personally, I like to trim my nails with a sharp, clean pair of large nail clippers every two weeks. I believe that you should not cut them right off. I recommend keeping some "free edge" or nail that has grown out from the nail bed to prevent ingrown nails; If you cut them too short, nails can become sore and tender, plus more susceptible to infection. By cutting your nails every two weeks, it will also prevent you from ripping them off, of (even more gross!) biting them! Yuck! By having a regular schedule for your nails, just like you do with your hair trims, it will help you to grow a healthy, good-looking set of man claws that the ladies will love! There is no excuse, men; a pair of nail clippers start at just $15.

Cuticles

Ok, I will preface this by saying that cuticle care is a little harder than nail care, but is still equally as important. If you need help from the pros, just come on in to the spa. Our qualified Esthetician's can even teach you how to perform at-home cuticle care and give you some pointers if you ask nicely. First of all, I have to say I have seen a lot of terrible looking cuticles on men! I have asked why and all of you say the same thing: You rip them off or you bite at them.... again...?! Yuck! So now I'll tell you of this great invention that was made a while ago called... "cuticle nippers!" They are a lot like nail clippers but specifically made for your cuticles! Please listen to me when I say I don't use cuticle nippers on your nails, or nail clippers on your cuticles. Trust me, you will be sorry. Rather, go out and buy yourself a pair of cuticle nippers; they don't need to cost you more than $15. You will want a new sharp pair, because the dull ones don't cut well and you will end up pulling your cuticles off anyway, or pinching yourself, which can both damage the nail bed. The rule that I like to go by is to only nip off the loose hangnail bits, and not the entire cuticle. Again, if you over cut your cuticle line, it will become sensitive, sore and susceptible to infection and bacteria. The cuticle line is there to protect the nail and to keep anything dirty or unhealthy out of it, so it is absolutely healthy to have some cuticle. On the flip side of that, hangnails that are left not clipped can become sore, irritated and unsightly. Ripping them off can also cause them to become sore and infected, so a clean sharp nip is the best option. If your cuticles are very overgrown, then you may want to come into the spa and let us give your nails a good once over to start you off on the right foot. This is a great chance for us to also teach you how to do this for yourself if you are feeling overwhelmed.

Underneath Your Nail

I'm making a separate paragraph for this because this is serious business and I need you all to take note! I say this is serious because the old rotten sock dirt we pick out from under your nails is alarming, and this is why: If you don't regularly clean out all the dirt, rotten skin cells and bacteria from under your nail, you are promoting the perfect environment for fungus to grow! That's right my male friends, I said... Nail Fungus!! So I simply suggest that when you are in the shower, use your fingernail or an appropriate tool and gently clean under all 20 nails at least once a week. This will ensure any possible fungus friends will not have the time to harbor and grow. If you take nothing else from this article, this is the one piece of advice I ask you to make sure you take home with you: Nail fungus can make you grow distorted nails, it can make your nails loose in their nail beds, and sometimes, even turn into a more serious infection that could affect the entire toe, not to mention some other really bad health implications and require a doctor's intervention.

Dry and Cracked Hands

Ok so I know ALL of you guys suffer from dry hands and that's why I'm here to help you. A good hand cream is important. A small, easy to carry and fast absorbing hand cream is best, like our travel size F-Balms, created by a mountain climber who always suffered from dry hands. This product is so convenient, it can even fit in your pocket and is perfect for during the day. Some people like to put a bit of cream on their hands after they wash them to retain the moisture. This isn't crucial but a good idea. At night, keep the richer salve by your bed and use it before you go to sleep. I keep mine on my nightstand. Who cares if your hands are a bit greaser when you go to bed? You will wake up with the softest hands in town! Make sure when you are using lotion on your hands that you rub it in well and don't forget to rub some into your dry cuticles and heals as well. If the moisturizer feels like it just can't get through your hard, dry callused limbs, try a sugar or salt scrub. These can be really helpful at removing dead skin so your cream can penetrate the dry spots. Remember that if your hands and feet are too far gone, sometimes the best thing to do is exfoliate them and get rid of the dead, dry wall that stands between you and the fresh moist skin underneath.

Calluses On Your Hands and Feet

Every man should have a heel callus pumice. If not, go get one! You can use it on the callused parts of both your hands and your feet, and sometimes it is useful to use it on your callused knees also. Sometimes when the callus is overgrown, it can split the skin and become very uncomfortable. The best way to prevent and treat this is to routinely pumice your feet. I wear heels a lot and that causes me some callus build up on my feet, so I like to pumice my feet 3 x a week. You might not be wearing heels, but don't try to tell me you don't have calluses on your feet, men! Make sure that you moisturize your feet well after a pumice; the new skin now exposed needs good hydration to be soft right after a good pumice. And remember not to go too deep. You don't want too much scraped off. You need some callus and the more active you are the more you may need, but always remember to keep it groomed and soft with no snaggly bits!

Basic Stretches For Healthy Hands and Feet

I was asked by one of my male friends to put some stretches for healthy hands into this article, so here are the basics I like to use: I like to begin with stretching my arm straight out, palms facing down. Use your other hand and grab your fingers to pull them up and backward, until you feel a gentle stretch. Make sure you don't overdo it and injure your wrist! This stretch will feel really good for the wrist and with all the holding and lifting that you do at work! When you've held this stretch for a minute or two, gently bend your hand back the other way and hold. You can do this to the thumb also and it feels equally great! I like to gently squeeze the forearm, wrist, hand and fingers as I hold this stretch. This will always feel great and helps to relieve tension spots and improve circulation. I also like to gently pull on my fingers, and if they crack it's OK; don't worry! Just don't jerk your fingers when you are doing this and don't pull too hard on them either. The same stretches can be done to the feet also. The other stretch that will feel great for the feet is sitting on the floor with your feet under you with your toes to the back of the room. Roll your toes under and try to sit on your feet to stretch out your arches. This may be tender to some but is necessary and may improve over time. This one is a killer for me because of my love for high heels! My advice with this one is being gentle and consistent. Do it a few times a week, breath through it and take your time. It's a great one for when your arches hurt or if you suffer from Plantar Fasciitis. This is painful swelling and tension in the feet. Lastly, when I really over-use my arms, hands, legs or feet, it feels good to soak them in cold and/or hot baths at the end of the night. Try it; it will change your life! I love putting my arms and hands in a nice ice bath at the end of a long, hard day. It feels like putting out a fire in your hands and makes me feel really good!

Of course, if any of this is too much for you, you can always book in for our Mountain Man-i-cure, the Gentleman's Pedicure or a Massage or Acupuncture appointment with one of our qualified practitioners! We are here for you whether you need a treatment or just some advice and are always happy to help.

Natural Home Remedy For Foot Fungus

Toenail fungus, also known as "Onychomycosis," is a bacterial infection underneath the nail. The fungus tends to flourish under certain conditions, such as abnormal pH levels of the skin, a weakened immune system, continuous exposure to a moist environment including sweaty shoes and socks, poor hygiene and diabetes. The good news about toe fungus is that it can be treated, even with a natural approach! Try this at-home remedy to improve and heal the condition.

Foot Soak

Water
Equal part Apple Cider Vinegar (equal to the water)
1/2 Cup Baking Soda
10 Drops of Tea-Tree Essential Oil
10 Drops of Myrrh Essential Oil

Mix the vinegar, baking soda, tea tree and myrrh essential oils into the water, then soak your feet for 15-30 minutes. While soaking, you can use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub the affected nail. After soaking, rinse your feet with clean water. To keep feet hydrated, coconut oil is an antibacterial way to obtain a clean type of moisture. Make sure they don't stay damp in closed shoes all day. You can also drop some tea tree on the affected nail in the morning. Wear a sock to bed to avoid getting tea tree oil in your sheets! You can also use a foot soak each night to help moisturize and treat fungus.

Vinegar - Is mildly acidic to prevent the spread of fungus, but it also kills the bacteria and fungi.

Baking Soda - Helps with foot odor

Tea Tree Oil - Controls infection

Myrrh Oil - Is antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-fungal

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Natural Home Remedy for Athletes Foot

Athlete's foot is a contagious fungal infection that affects the skin between the toes. The fungus thrives in warm, moist environments and is commonly found in showers, on locker room floors and around swimming pools. Athlete's foot can also typically be developed from wearing socks that haven't been cleaned properly and shoes that don't have an allowed time to dry out. Our shoes harbour a lot of bacteria!

Tips To Heal Athletes Foot

1. Thoroughly dry your feet after each bath or shower

2. Always wear clean white socks made from natural fibers. They absorb more moisture than synthetic materials.

3. Wear shoes made of canvas or leather to allow your feet to breathe during the day

4. Try not to wear the same shoes 2 days in a row as they need at least one full day to completely dry.

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Other Useful Recipes

Shoe Spray

In a spray bottle, mix half vinegar, half rubbing alcohol and 5 drops of Lemongrass and Tea Tree Essential oils. Spray this solution in your shoes at the end of each day to kill bacteria and prevent growth. You can also use the foot soak mentioned above.

Foot Odour

Foot odour usually occurs when your feet sweat inside your shoes or socks, therefore allowing a growth of bacteria. We all naturally have bacteria but it can feed on the sweat and dead skin cells, producing a foul smell. The foot soak below can help relieve you of unwanted food odour!

Foot Soak

Water
1/2 Cup Baking Soda
2 Black Tea Bags boiled in 3 cups of water
10-20 Drops of Lavender Essential Oil

Mix the baking soda and lavender essential oil into the water and soak your feet for 15-30 minutes. While soaking, you can also use a soft toothbrush or pumice to gently exfoliate the skin. After soaking, rinse your feet with clean water and be sure to thoroughly dry feet, especially before putting on socks and/or shoes.

Vinegar - Is mildly acidic to prevent the spread of fungus, but it also kills the bacteria and fungi.

Baking Soda - Helps with foot odor

Lavender Oil - Is very calming, soothing and antibacterial, with a great scent.

Black Tea - Is a Tannic Acid and helps kill bacteria and close pores, minimizing sweat the bacteria can grow on

Treatment & Prevention of Stretch Marks

By Rachel Lamont
Medical Esthetician and Owner of The Natural Art of Skin Care

Stretch marks or "striae," as they are called in dermatology, are a tear of the dermal layer of the skin forming a coloured and textured scar. Over time this scar may lighten in appearance, but will likely never completely disappear. 

The most common causes of stretch marks are rapid growth and rapid weight changes, hormone changes such as puberty, pregnancy, bodybuilding, and even some medications. Family gene disposing can have some parts in it as well. Some studies suggest that stretch marks become worse when coupled with a increase in cortisone, which is our stress hormone produced by our adrenal glands. Mayo Clinic research states that an increase of cortisone can weaken or prevent the fibroblasts from forming new collagen and elastin fibers, which are responsible for the skins thickness, help repair the skin, and aide in maintaining the skins stretching ability. 

The most common places to get stench marks are on your tummy, thighs, hips, breasts, buttock, however one can get them anywhere the skin can stretch. 

Stretch marks can vary in appearance especially depending on how long you've had them, what caused them, where they are on your body, and the type of skin you have. They begin as red or purple lesions and over time will fade white. In my history I have noticed they are the easiest to treat and will diminish faster when they are treated fresh and new. When stretch marks become old and white in colour, it is common for more work to be needed to treat them.

Throughout the years, many women have tried to find the perfect solution to diminish and repair the "tear in the skin" tissue. Ancient societies have used everything from different types of oils and essential oil blends, olive oils, shea butters, rosehip oil, argan oil,  frankincense and lavender to treat stretch marks. Strong acid peels like high glycolic acids, micro needling, some types of laser treatments, dermabrasion and high vitamin A and C acids have also been used to treat them. In my experience, an individualized treatment protocol that includes a mixture of the above, that works to feed the skin a high nutrient-rich skin care regime, while also using some in-house peels and micro needling at the same time, combined with at-home skin care techniques will yield the best results. The aim of treatment is always to activate the fibroblasts to produce collagen and create the hyper exfoliation needed to remove damaged skin and produce new skin cells.

In closing, prevention is the best way to "treat" stretch marks in advance. Be mindful and ask yourself if you are feeding your skin inside with a healthy diet and outside with vitamin rich, chemical-free creams and oils and, importantly, SPF care. Also always be mindful of extreme and rapid weight gain or loss, any medications that you are taking, plus your overall health.

If you are someone who has stretch marks and would like one of our qualified professionals to take a look to see if anything can be done to reduce them, book a complementary skin consult today at The Natural Art of Skin Care.